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What the Critics Say – a round up of the weekend’s restaurant reviews

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Thumbnail image for What the Critics SayTwo-Michelin-starred chef Phil Howard’s latest restaurant, Kitchen W8 in London, is a must-consider for anyone in Kensington with something to celebrate, says restaurant critic John Walsh.

Writing in The Independent, Walsh is impressed by both the food and the service at Kitchen W8, which is a joint venture between Howard and restaurateur Rebecca Mascarenhas.

However, he is less keen on the prices. “With most starters costing £8.50 and main courses mostly north of £15 (rib-eye steak is £19.50) it’s hardly snack territory,” he says.

Meanwhile, The Guardian’s Matthew Norman is effusive in his review of the Dean Street Townhouse, which is the first new joint offering from Nick Jones’ Soho House Group and Richard Caring, owner of Caprice Holdings.  

“It mingles the bustle and slickness of the grand, all-day Parisian brasserie with a determinedly anti-Michelin English menu and a room cunningly designed (distressed mirrors, grand bar, wood panelling) for that ultra-voguish, modern media Soho clubland feel,” Norman says. 

Meanwhile the new head chef at Gilpin Lodge in Windemere, Cumbria, received the seal of approval from Jasper Gerard in The Daily Telegraph. Despite fearing the place might be all cream teas and doilies, he is delighted to find that, as well as being friendly, informal and full, the food prepared by Russell Plowman is top notch.

In The Times, Giles Coren says his visit to new Japanese restaurant Aqua Kyoto atop the former Dickins & Jones building on London’s Regent Street, was a fun experience. As well as consuming great cocktails and good sushi, he also enjoys the stunning night views.

Jay Rayner of The Observer finds a far better-than-average local restaurant in Maison Bleue in Bury St Edmonds, Suffolk. Efficient, friendly service and perfectly judged fish cookery makes the town “a very nice place to be”.

The post What the Critics Say – a round up of the weekend’s restaurant reviews appeared first on Guide Girl.


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